From a Simple Post…

It all started with a simple post on a message board.  In late September of 2006, “impalass” decided to see if he could actually get a group of ghost town and abandoned places enthusiasts together for a weekend of exploration and knowledge sharing in southern Saskatchewan.  “Ghost Town Heaven in 2007” soon gave way to “Ghost Town Convention” and Neidpath gave way to Hallonquist, but the foundation was in place.

Original Post

“impalass” Plants the Seed

The vast majority of us had never met each other before, other than exchanging messages on the Ghost Town Chat forums.  I had no idea what any of these people looked like, how old they were, or whether or not they would even show up.  Upon arriving at the community hall in Hallonquist my fears were quickly allayed.  Mike (the infamous ‘”impalass”) was already there and getting things organized.  Slowly we all filtered in, introductions were made and we all began to realize that a common passion for ghost towns was enough to unite us.  We sweated our way through the weekend, with temperatures reaching around 37C.  We covered our vehicles in oil from a construction project, we were sunburned, we had dust and grime covering ourselves and everything we owned – in short, it was a tremendous success and we planned to do it again the following summer, picking a different area of the province to explore.  A tradition was born.

That initial group barely broke into double-digits in terms of numbers.  We would grow each year, eventually topping out at around 40 people for the 2009 convention.  That number proved to be unmanageable so membership was limited to 25 the following year, the first year I missed out on joining the group – not from a lack of desire, but rather a scheduling conflict with a trip to Washington state.

So, that’s how I found myself driving alone down a dusty road on Friday morning last week, heading to a town called Marysburg.  Actually, “town” is a bit of a misnomer – there is an impressive church, a community hall and a smattering of family farms but not much more. 

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The Road to Marysburg

I am the first to arrive at the community hall.  I immediately begin to poke around the area, starting with the church.  As I am standing there reading the sign a pickup truck slowly rolls to a stop behind me.  I immediately brace for a confrontation.  At home in Alberta where there is a much higher population density I seem to get hassled much more when exploring than I do in Saskatchewan. 

I turn to face the truck and raise my arm to shield my eyes from the glare.  The window rolls down and the blinding reflection of the sun off the glass disappears, leaving me with red spots flashing in my eyes for a few seconds.  As my vision clears the weathered face of a farmer becomes clear.  Immediately he asks if I would like to look around inside the church.  When I respond in the affirmative he produces a key from his pocket and ambles over to the westernmost door.  He slowly unlocks it and pushes it open.  “Head on in, he says.”

We exchange a few pleasantries and I discover his name is Joe and he moved to the area in 1969.  He wanders over to a door which has a sign on it which reads “No admittance – absolutely no exceptions!”  He pushes the door open and says “Go have a look from the loft, you can see better from up there.”

It is as I am photographing the crumbling drywall below a stained glass window that Matt from Manitoba arrives.  He and I met at the 2009 convention in Kayville.  As we are talking, our organizer Mike arrives and greets us, along with Matt’s uncle.  Ghost Town Convention 2011 is officially underway.

People slowly arrive throughout the Friday.  Friends who haven’t seen each other for a year greet each other with the easy-going air of casualness of friends who were just together for coffee last week.  For the others there are introductions, somewhat guarded at first but they are quickly being ribbed like veterans and before long they are joining in the banter.  First-timer or perfect-attendee, everyone feels welcome with this group.

This year our navigation was somewhat complicated by the huge amounts of precipitation that had fallen in Saskatchewan over the course of Spring.  Several backroads were newly repaired, some spots were soft, and others were completely submerged.  We were always able to adjust on the fly so that even those with low-clearance or two-wheel-drive vehicles weren’t left behind.  After all, we’re all in this together. 

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Anyone Bring a Boat?

Growing up in southern Alberta, these grid roads are where I learned to drive.  I never feel more at home than I do when I am cruising down a backroad with my windows down and the wind blowing everything around inside the cab of my truck.  If I describe hiking in the mountains as “soul cleansing” then driving dusty backroads is “soul liberating”. 

The routine carries on for two solid days.  We drive, staying close enough to each other to keep the rolling cloud of dust in sight, far enough way to try and avoid chipping our windshields.  We stop, seemingly at random, but knowing Mike has something of interest to show us at each location.  Whether it is an old schoolhouse hidden behind decades-old caragana bushes, a general store stuffed to the rafters with antiques, or a grain elevator rising above the prairie, there is something that we will find interesting enough to photograph from every conceivable angle.

After all, the ghost town convention is more than abandoned places – it is just as much about photography.  Mike is a very accomplished photographer and you can learn an awful lot about the art by following him around and seeing how he does things.  In fact, with this many camera-toting enthusiasts around you can’t help but get better at capturing light.  One of my favourite parts of the trip is watching the convoy roll to a stop and waiting to see how everyone approaches their shots.  I like to see where people set up for shots, the angles they use.  I like to try and understand why they are shooting from that particular angle, or what it is about that particular subject that caught their interest.  Of course, checking out the images people post after the event is also a great lesson in photography. 

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Exploring an Old School

Ghost towning is like most of my hobbies – if you don’t “get” it, you’ll never understand.  But, if I could somehow convey the feeling that comes when you’re driving down the highway with a fellow enthusiast and you both see a perfect sunset forming on the horizon and you know you need to find a spot to park *right now* before losing the light – then you would understand in a heartbeat.  The frantic rush to get the gear out of the backseat, to find the right angle, to get the exposure “just so”, and then to capture the image – that’s pure magic.  Then to drive down the road a little way and find an even better spot and then do it all again?  Those are the sort of memories that transcend time; you’re not just capturing light, you are literally capturing a moment – a moment in time when everything just came together perfectly.

Folks, that’s what the Ghost Town Convention is all about.  I can’t wait to do it again next year…

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Moments of Pure Magic

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Vacation 2011: Day Sixteen

Well, I sure fell behind in my blog updates, didn’t I?  A combination of lack of internet, laziness, and “too busy doing other things” have combined to keep me from spending much time writing anything down.

When we last left off, we had just spent our last full day in the greater Victoria area and we were heading to Rathtrevor Beach Provincial Park near Parksville.  We enjoyed our three nights there, but we didn’t fall in love with the area like we did with Metchosin.  We’re still talking about how we could handle a move to the Metchosin area, all we need is a lottery win so we don’t need to worry about finding work.

We didn’t do a lot of hiking around Parksville.  I had great plans but it rained a little almost every day, plus I was battling either allergies or a cold and I didn’t feel as great as I could have.  We really liked Rathtrevor though — the campground offered nice large sites and the heavy trees meant we had a lot of privacy. 

Site #160 at Rathtrevor

From Parksville it was a cross-island jaunt to Green Point campground in Pacific Rim National Park Reserve.  Our site had one of the best views we’ve ever experienced — perched high atop a cliff overlooking the Pacific Ocean.  The roar of the waves was our constant companion; many times we awoke during the night thinking there was a terrible wind storm outside only to realize it was the ocean.  The trees obscured the view a bit, but that’s not a bad problem to have, is it?

What we will always remember is the rain.  As the park ranger told us, “Well, we couldn’t call it a rain forest if it didn’t rain, right?”  It rained almost every night and often during the day we would have showers as well.  The humidity was amazing — our towels never did dry, even after hanging for four days.

 View From Site 71 at Green Point

Our four nights in Pacific Rim were highlighted by…

  • Driving the logging roads up to Kennedy Lake and checking out an old abandoned bridge

 

  • Checking out the towns of Tofino and Ucluelet; walking the Lighthouse Loop of the Wild Pacific Trail and then having some great food at Jiggers

Jiggers Fish and ChipsAmphitrite LighthouseFinally, we moved on to our final stop on this trip:  Campbell River.  We managed to get in a hike on the Ripple Rock Trail out to a viewpoint above Seymour Narrows and several other walks in the local nature parks.  This is our third night here and we have just two more left before we point ourselves eastward and start heading home. 

Seymour Narrows

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Vacation 2011: Day Six

Not too much to write about tonight.  We spent the bulk of the day in East Sooke Regional Park, checking out a couple of different trails.  The highlight was the hike out to the viewpoint overlooking Secretary Island in the Strait of Juan de Fuca. 

After exploring the park we stopped at Royal Bay Bakery and picked up a load of products — an apple fritter, a load of garlic cheese bread, a load of rye sourdough, and a pack of cinnamon buns.  The garlic cheese bread was a nice compliment to the seafood pasta I made with the shrimp we picked up yesterday.  The sourdough will make great toast tomorrow morning and the cinnamon buns?  Well, let’s say they disappeared quickly.

Tomorrow is a travel day.  We’re going to miss this area as we have really become attached to it in our short time here.  I have a feeling we’ll be back again one day…

 

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Vacation 2011: Day Five

OK, fine, I’ll admit it — I’m hurting!  I had no idea a simple hike up a 500m hill could result in me feeling so sore, but today I am stiff and not moving as well as I should be.  I think it’s a combination of being out of practice with hiking after a long winter plus being so much closer to sea level.  I have found when hiking at this level I am able to breath much more efficiently.  At home, where hikes typically start over 1500m and often go well over 2000m I often am stopping to catch my breath whereas here I don’t need those breaks.  I think that means I was able to push myself harder yesterday than I normally could at home — hence the sore muscles.

I certainly wasn’t going to let Mount Manuel Quimper stop me from experiencing my vacation though.

After another breakfast in the trailer (we’re soon going to be out of our good eggs from home) we set out to explore the National Historic Sites of Fort Rodd Hill and Fisgard Lighthouse.  The lighthouse is the oldest lighthouse on Canada’s west coast, making it something worth seeing.

I made a couple of rookie mistakes with my photography today.  First, I left the GPSr in the car so I won’t be able to properly geotag my photos.  Second, and more importantly, I messed up the settings on the D90 partway through the tour.  I was attempting to change the ISO when I changed from indoors to outdoors, but instead I adjusted the white balance, leaving all the photos from that point forward with a blue tinge.  The good thing is I was shooting everything in RAW, so when I get home and get back to my desktop computer I’ll be able to fix that with some post-processing work.  For now, you get a black-and-white photo as a sample.

We spent a few hours touring the grounds and checking out the exhibits before heading into the city for another late lunch / early dinner.  I actually decided to leverage the power of social media to pick our destination.  Using the foursquare app on my iPhone I checked local destinations to get some ideas for places to eat.  I rejected a few places because they appeared to be right in downtown Victoria and that isn’t the sort of place I care to drive a long-box crewcab pickup.

I was originally aiming for a pub called “The Beagle“.  We found it easily enough but parking was a challenge, leading to one of those classic “couples moments”.  At almost the exact same moment I was thinking “I guess I’ll just park a few blocks away and we’ll walk” Shirley decides to speak up with “I sure don’t feel like walking 800 blocks from wherever you decide to park.”

OK, so I changed plans.  I managed to find a one hour parking spot that was very close.  Excellent!  As we were walking to the pub we spotted Pizzeria Prima Strada across the road.  This place had been on a list sent to us by friends of ours who are moving to Victoria this summer as one of their “must do” places.  Well, we changed plans and crossed over and ended up having one of the best thin-crust pizzas I’ve ever experienced. 

As we rushed back to move our truck before the one-hour parking expired, I couldn’t resist a stop in at Island Meat and Seafood.  I had been lamenting my failure to locate a seafood counter on this trip thus far and this place fit the bill perfectly.  We picked up some fresh shrimp which will go into a seafood fettuccine I am planning to make tomorrow night (hey, we need to save a few dollars and eat in the trailer at some point, right?) along with some sun-dried tomato turkey sausages which I plan on grilling at our next stop this weekend.

Tomorrow is our last day in the Victoria area before we move on.  It’s been a great tour of the area.  I haven’t been out here in more than 20 years when I did a road trip with my cousins and I can honestly say I love it.  It’s been quite windy today but the other than that the weather has been fantastic.  The Summer of Awesomeness is living up to its name.

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Vacation 2011: Day Four

My plans for an early morning hike up Mount Manuel Quimper changed somewhat — I did not get started as early as expected.  Shirley opted to come along with Tucker and I as well, so the three of us set out up the old logging road towards the summit.

Naturally I didn’t pay as much attention to some of the trail reports as I should have so I ended up leading us up the longer route — instead of being a little more than 4km each way I managed to turn it into a trip of nearly 6km.  The elevation gain wasn’t anything too serious, about 400m.  The trail we followed was well marked, even after it turned off the old road and started up the mountain itself.

I did the last couple of kilometres without Shirley, as she reached “the Mrs. DanOCan Point” shortly after leaving the old road.  The Mrs. DanOCan Point is that point in any hike where the fun goes out of it for her.  You can usually tell when she has reached the Mrs. DanOCan Point because any comments you make about how wonderful the scenery is are met with silence.

The highlight of the hike is the old fire lookout at the top.  Built in 1951, the lookout has been abandonded for a long time, but remains open as a shelter for hikers.  It was great fun reading all the markings people have left inside over the years.  The views from the top of the mountain are quite nice too, of course.

After the hike we went into Victoria for a late lunch.  We ended up at Spinnakers Brewpub, based on the recommendation of a friend.  It was worth the journey.  I enjoyed a Scottish ale and an order of fish (salmon) and chips while Shirley had a shrimp melt.  The food was great and we greatly enjoyed sitting on the patio watching the float planes take off and land in the harbour.

All in all it was a great day, a perfect combination of exercise and relaxation.  Two more full days in this area and more exploration to take place.  We feel we’ve been experiencing a good balance of activities and relaxation.  All too often on vacation we feel the pressure to “go go go” all time time and miss the whole point of leaving the schedules behind.

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